Before I was a blogger, I wrote a day trip column for the the Expat English Language Magazine The Outsider. Last summer, I published one of the stories on a visit to a brush museum during my 4 and 1/2 year sojourn in Hiroshima. Growing up in rural Oklahoma, going to OSU--a big university in small town--and spending my first years in Japan in small cities, Hiroshima was my first experience in living in a large city. Hiroshima could have been dismissed as a typical industrial city had it not been for the devastation that occurred in August 1945 when the Enola Gay marked a turning point in human history but instead Hiroshima became a city pregnant with meaning. Perhaps due to sheer destruction, Hiroshima became a city of peace with the A-Bomb Dome the focal point. Perhaps because of the sheer destruction, it was often easy to live life day to day without remembering the destructive nature of my species. But living in Hiroshima meant that the memories and effects of the catastrophic event were always lurking behind a thin veil of normalcy, ready to surface.
Here is an article I wrote for the March 1998 issue for The Outsider demonstrating just how thin that veil could be.
Still Stuck in February by Marta Wiggins & Yuka Kagawa
Ichi gatsu iku, ni gatus nigeru, san gatsu saru, loosely translated says January goes, February runs away and March passes, a Japanese saying that means that the first three months of the year are gone before we know it. Since March is nearly gone but my mind still seems to be stuck in February, I couldn't agree with this saying more.
One reason time moves faster than we realize is from the stress we place ourselves under by taking on a large number of a commitments and then trying to cram them in what little space there may, or may not, be in our schedules. I know--I am an expert on over-committing myself.
This spring I am making an effort effort to create a low-stress environment. What better way to put words into action than to spend the day Trippin' Out at a spa. What's more this month's trip required minimal travel for Hiroshima residents like Yuka and myself.
Kandansanso Kura Haus in Ushita, about 10 minutes from Hiroshima City by bus or Astram Lline, was our destination. Kura Haus (German for spa in Japanse means bath house) that may or may not use natural hot spring water like an onsen--actually this place is an entire complex of baths. Bathers wear swimsuits rather than their birthday suits and the baths are almost always mixed. This is an attractive feature if you are in a mixed group, or if someone in your group or you are self-conscious.
Kandansanso, which does use natural hot spring water, opens to the public at 10:00 AM. Yuka and I planned on taking the Astram monorail from Hondori Station at 9:30 in the morning. Meeting as planned and saying our hellos we started off in the only direction the Astram can go from Hondori Station--out of town. Our only clue as to where Kandansanso is located was a piece of paper which said it was about fifteen minutes past the Youth Hostel. The problem was that both of us only had a vague notion where the Youth Hostel was located. Getting some ideas from an announcement on the Astram, we left off at Ushita station and then found ourself slightly lost--wandering up a road, making a few wrong turns, and back tracking. Finally, we spotted a s sign for the Youth Hostel. Yuka and I thought now would be a good time to get some directions. Since were we aren't men, asking wasn't a problem!
A quick stop in the Youth Hostel revealed that it was quite inexpensive Y1940 for foreigners and Y2440 for Japanese per night. The clerk quoted demand as the reason for the price difference. Anyway, the clerk kindly informed us that Kandansanso was indeed up the hill about another kilometer (3/4-ish mile). Huffing and puffing the remaining distance, we encouraged each other with thoughts of the warm, relaxing baths that awaited. Nearing the top of the mountain, we got a good view of the Kura Haus . Turning around we could see Ushita Station and the
Big Wave sports complex behind us. It didn't take much to realize that it would probably have been wiser to just walk straight up the mountain from behind the Big Wave. In fact, Kandansanso can be spotted on the hill from the platform at Ushita Station. It is a large white building with cathedral style windows. From Ushita Station, exit on the Big Wave side, turn to the left and walk about 500 meters to the Youth Hostel sign. Turn right and continue up the hill past the youth hostel. If you are adventurous, go behind the Big Wave Complex, through the rose garden and up the mountain trail to the Kura Haus.
Arriving just past 10 o'clock we spotted ticket vending machines outside to the left of the entrances double doors. Tickets, Y500 for adults need to be purchased here before entering.
We entered, took our shoes off, put on what we thought was the appropriate footwear and walked over toward the reception desk. An elderly gentleman tapped us on the shoulders and told us we were wearing geta (wooden outdoor clogs) and not slippers. Faces red, we took our geta back to the entryway and retraced our footsteps, this time in our stocking-feet, to the reception desk. Here the receptionist told us to deposit our shoes in one of the free lockers provided. Once again we traipsed back to the entryway which is all of about three meters (10 feet) from the reception desk--but that's not the point!
A third approach to the desk proved successful and having explain that we were there to write an article, we then found ourselves waiting to meet someone. After a short while the spa manager arrived and kindly offered a tour of the spa and other facilities on the premises.
Kandansanso was originally conceived as a spa for the victims of the atomic bombing. However, the directors came to realize that it was better if the patients were able to visit and relax in the spa with friends and family. The spa and its facilities are primarily intended for radiation victims but is open to the general public as well.
Before the tour began, the manager asked if we had taken the free bus service to the spa. The look of surprise on our faces was answer enough. He continued to explain that on our next visit we would be able to catch the bus near Hiroshima Station, on the Shinkansen (bullet train) entrance side, or in Tatemachi in front of the Shi-min Byouin (City Hospital). With this valuable piece of information firmly storied, our tour began upstairs on the second floor. Here was saw the Go (Japanese strategy game) Room, snack bar and restaurant. Walking over to the hotel side of the building, we were shown twenty-four Japanese style rooms and two Western style rooms located on the third and fourth floors. At the time of our visit, portions of Kandansanso were still under construction. It was explained that the room rates, Y3030 per night, per person, may be slightly higher after the grand opening on April 1st.
The Western style rooms are quite spacious for a hotel room in Japan and come complete with 2 twin size beds, a sofa and a vanity. The Japanese rooms are standard 8-mat size ryokan (Japanese inn) rooms. The advantage of being a guest in the hotel is that you are free to use the spa in the mornings from 7:00 AM - 8:00 AM and in the evenings from 5:00 PM - 9:00 PM. (It is open to the public from 10:00 AM - 4:00 PM). Since only hotel guests are free to use the spa in the mornings and in the evenings, and there are a limited number of rooms, it would feel like a personal spa at these times.
After viewing the hotel rooms, we moved on to see the mini-theater and lounge called the Relax Room. This part was still under construction but the theater will be used for traditional Japanese stage entertainment to more fully involve the elderly patrons and their providers.
Finishing up back at the front desk we picked up spa locker keys from the desk located around the corner form the reception area and made our way to the spa.[Note to smokers: smoking is only permitted in the smoking room located opposite the reception desk.]
In the busy locker room, we donned our swimsuits, walked through the glass doors and found ourselves...lost. We opened a door only to find an onsen. Confused we returned to the dressing room but found no other doors. Then we decided to follow someone who looked like she knew where she was going. In hot pursuit, we retraced our steps through the glass doors, then straight ahead through a solid metal door. At last we were in the right place. Through a window, we saw the busy spa below. Still following our unwitting guide we entered the elevator that went downstairs.
The moist heat form the spa immediately relaxed us. Rinsing ourselves off at the fountain, we proceed to the pool. No swimming is allowed in the pool, which is only waist deep. Instead of swimming, people get exercise by walking around the pool. Soon Yuka and I gave up the urge to swim and decided to spend time in the jacuzzi, located in the center of the pool. Ahhh...relaxation.
The rotenburo (outdoor pool) was next. The water is hot and there is a sign recommending no more than a 10 minute soak. The pleasant surroundings provided for a relaxing experience. There is an amazing view of the city from this pool and would undoubtedly be be impressive at night.
Eventually the need to rehydrate was urgent and luckily we found two fountains--on the left is drinking water and the one on the right is onsen water. Supposedly it is healthful when drank in small quantities--the taste is so foul it would be amazing if anyone could drink more.
Over the next several hours the water did its work while we went from bath to bath taking care to spend extra time in the ones claiming to make you beautiful.
Thoroughly relaxed, but feeling the pangs of hunger, it was time to make a move to the restaurant. Leaving the spa, we were handed a towel--which is not a gift and needs to be deposited in the hamper before entering the elevator.
Back in the locker room and bare-naked we went into the large onsen which has its own rotenburo. Before entering the bath, we found that all the essentials were provided for a shampoo and a thorough scrubbing that left us squeaky clean and ready for a final relaxing soak before heading off.
Back in the locker room I realized that my foresight was a bit short of the mark. I hadn't brought any extra make-up and finished before Yuka. Making the best of some private time, I waiting in the lobby in one of the massage chairs--just Y50 for five minutes!
Soon Yuka joined me and we were off to the restaurant. The food was tasty enough. Enjoying our meals and finishing over coffee and cake, an elderly woman, who spoke English, struck up a conversation. We learned that she was 78 years old and had graduated from Sofia University only twelve years ago. Suddenly I understood why Kandansanso is open to the public. It's not only a place where young and old alike can relax and enjoy themselves, but also a place that stories can be shared and appreciated. There is much to be learned from our elders if only we slow down, relax and listen. What better place to do than in a Kura Haus?